Bread, Butter, & Bourguignon: Where To Eat In Nice

Sailing along the Cote d’Azur are we? Need some assistance on where to eat in Nice? You’ve landed in the right place (intentionally of course.)

Although Nice is a much-loved summer destination, the gastronomic scene is in full motion throughout the year. Restaurants are always in preparation and operating for the local entourage and seasoned tourists alike. Nice France is home to the perfect balance of quaint French bistros and high-brow restaurants. You can experience the best of both worlds without compromising quality and culinary excellence.

French fair is sought after from across the globe. Is it because we are drawn to the chic and unbothered attitude of the French? It all feels so effortless. Life is for play, pleasure, and palette pleasers.

The south of France embodies an effortless energy, it upholds the French chic standard with a little more of a ‘kick-your-heels-up’ type of vibe. It is where style is embedded in the culture and, quite literally, transcends onto the contents of what is on your plate. There are some places where food tastes so much better, and Nice… is one of them. You could be anywhere in the world enjoying the same meal, yet you feel the absence of culture, of radiating energy, and of attitude.

What to expect when dining in the South of France:

There are usually lunch and dinner settings in France, it is a way to prepare, reset, and refine the meals of the day. Though of course, there are venues that differ and are open right through or from 6/7 pm onwards. To ensure you’re not met with disappointment, I would plan my day around the eateries I wish to visit, coupled with the location I’m spending the day in. That way, you can kill two birds with one stone and get the most out of the Cote d’Azur.

Dining in Europe always feels spontaneous, renewed and fresh. Restaurants adopt menus that are seasonal and often available on the day. The food in Nice France adopts a blend of cultural styles, as well as staying true to it’s stripes. Whether you fancy a Ratouille or Nicoise Salad, or a housemade American-style smash burger, Nice has you covered.

To set the tone for your dining experience, are you more of the Old Nice, weiving medieval streets and local market type? Or, do you prefer the modern city centre bordered by bustling restaurants and shops? Where to eat in Nice can be daunting, so allow me to assist you.

Where To Eat In Nice: A 7 Course Degustation

A Gastronomic journey in the South of France awaits. Prepare to have your tastebuds tantalised by the next 7 stars of the South. Our ‘Entrée‘ begins with true Niçoise specialties, the ‘Plat Principal’ is a culmination of traditional hearty meals the French are so well known for, and last but not least, ‘Dessert’ that is adopted from Frances’ bordering neighbours.

01. Chez Thérésa – Old Town Nice

I was pleasantly delighted when I discovered street food in Nice. I’m so used to the availability of a souvlaki pita in Greece or focaccia in Italy. Socca is the ultimate street food to sink your teeth into in Nice. You want to have Socca in one hand as you walk the prom (Promenade) and glisten under the sweltering sun.

Socca is essentially chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and sea salt that get mixed together to make the socca batter. Socca should be like a thin pancake, but not too thin that it flops around. It is usually placed in a flat cast iron/copper pan and cooked in the woodfire oven. Hands down, this is some of the best food in Nice France. When you eat this wholesome delicacy, you want to ensure your Socca has a golden and crispy crust. It is the combination of crusty, soft, and salty that makes for the ultimate…

Chez Thereza is an institution when it comes to the Southern Socca favourite and take pride in preparing and cooking it the traditional way, in a wood fire oven. You’ll wait in queue not because you have to, but because you want to. You absolutely want to sink your teeth into this wholesome, salty (and a little oily) goodness. We got the OG plain and simple Socca, took it over to a sunny spot by the street and couldn’t be more content. It was hands down one of the best Nice local dishes to try.

Other Socca To Try:

Chez Pipo – We desperately wanted to try this place but ran out of time.
Chez Rene
La Socca – Hole in the wall goodness

02. Fournil Zielinska – Old Town Nice

The Cote d’Azur spoils you for choice. Before you move on to our Plat Principal options, let’s explore everyone’s favourite metabolism starter; BREAD… and maybe some butter.

The Leaving Crumbs blog is quite literally the aftermath of my guilty pleasure, devouring some fresh and fluffy sourdough bread *cough… this is somewhat a little true*. Though you think it’s easy to find the same quality of dough in the home of La Baguette, this is not always the case. Behold Fournil Zeilinska, a woman-owned and conceived bakery. Their special touch? The use of ancient wheat, long fermentation and natural sourdough. *I did warn you that it is not always a matter of copy and paste*

I’m a sucker for a sweet and pillowy babka, and guess what? Zielinska Bakery delivers exactly that. You’ll be sampling dough intertwined with Zataar leaving a buttery lemon aftertaste, and a range of sweets hidden with an injection of chocolate that takes you by surprise as you bite into the pastry.

Other Bakeries/Sweets To Try:

Bakery By Michel Fiori
Bio Brod – Organic Bakery
Mama Baker – Artisan, Organic, Delicious

04. La Merenda – Nice

I am forever reminiscing on my experience at La Merenda. And not because I rearranged my itinerary so I was able to squeeze in a lunch here before departing to Antibes. What a stretch, I know (considering I was in Nice on the weekend… when the restaurant did not operate).

La Merenda focuses on the essence of cooking. It is a testament to traditional Nicoise cuisine with a slight twist depending on daily market produce. It was (and is) some of the best food in Nice France. It is a quant, 20-seat or so restaurant with a micro kitchen that packs a punch. If you aren’t reserving your seat, are you even experiencing authentic Nice?

We sat nestled between another couple, and while the waiter was serving our house wine by the glass and showing us the written menu of the day on a chalkboard, we got to chatting with the couple beside. They had dined at this very restaurant almost 20 years ago. They so happened to be in the city and walked in and by luck were able to dine here yet again. It was a cherished memory and the nostalgia was real.

This goes to show that a place can leave an everlasting footprint in your heart and mind if it is impressionable and special enough. As you can guess, we chatted and reminisced while we began with our Entree of Pesto Pasta and French lentil soup, followed by the beloved Beef Bourguignon with Polenta chips. Homemade dessert was almost certainly thrown in the mix.

La Merenda is where to eat in Nice when you want to escape from the crowd, and the noise, and embrace tradition and the always comforting French cuisine. It is one of the best restaurants in Nice France. Ah oui! Merci…

03. Le Bistrot d’Antoine – Old Town Nice

Sometimes we like to eat out more casually. That does not imply a compromise on quality. It encourages you to dine relaxed and experience a sense of intimacy without sitting with your back straight and elbows shy of sitting on the table.

Bistrot d’Antoine is one of those charming French bistros and where to eat in Nice for a menu that changes with the seasons, always fresh and always tasteful. It’s an institution for our Plat Principal delights. If you’re a little over Bread, Butter, and Bourguignon, I’d probably steer to the green risotto with Octopus or Duck Confit?

It’s a true gem in the sea of tourist-hungry venues. Authenticity prevails yet again, and you’re met with a warm atmosphere and welcoming service that will enrich your next visit.

05. Le Plongeoir – Nice

Firstly can I begin by stating the obvious… what an absolute cracka of a spot for a restaurant. (Cracka Definition: Australian slang term for amazing/great) Le Plongeoir is perched on an emblematic site above La Réserve Plage. As you enter the premises you’re greeted with peek-a-boo moments of patrons dining, waves crashing onto the shore, or bathers in the distance enjoying the view.

Once a base for a majestic fishing boat, where, during the Belle Epoque, patrons could eat and drink exquisitely. It has embraced its charm and location to offer diners a multilayered venue where one can sip on cocktails at the Lounge Bar and watch the sunset near the shore. After you’ve sipped into the dusk, you can emerge between the sky and the sea for a delicate and simplistic meal bursting with flavour.

The menu is playfully presented yet simple in its pairings. The best food to eat in Nice is fresh and yields a lightness. At Le Plongeoir think Grilled cod fillet with a Bouillabaisse Jus or Rigatoni with Summer Truffles.

It is a sight for the senses, and even if you don’t quite think that the food is a true representation of authentic French cuisine, it is an extraordinary venue you won’t find elsewhere. The Cote d’Azur is always showing off…

06. Lavomatique

Laundromat turned restaurant, our favourite kind of space! No need to alter the name, just usher in the same crowd and, if they feel lost, assure them that you can offer both a dining experience like no other and a dry clean service of equal quality. Well, this is how I envisioned this transition occurring at its inception (this is a fable from a daydreamer… *me* so don’t take what I said literally).

Lavomatique was the first restaurant we dined at upon our arrival in Nice. It was extremely hard to top (and not just because we had front-row seats to the show). If you’re having difficulties choosing where to eat in Nice, don’t second guess this culinary masterpiece. Any seat in the house gives you a glimpse into the fiery open kitchen where chefs sit at their posts, delicately crafting an exciting tapas menu.

Every detail on the menu is exciting and a play on the palette. We started off with crispy Falafels and Tahini, Sashimi of the best grade, some Chicken Drumsticks in a sticky and sweet Teriyaki Glaze, and Mac n’ Cheese because what not? Oh, and I can’t forget the ultimate subtle kick combination of Grilled Cuttlefish atop a bed of smeared N’duja sauce.

Lavomatique is designed to share, but you’ll be at war for the last bites. Who will savour the last bites? C’est délicieux *kisses lips*

Plat Principal, Miam !

Bocca Nissa – Rooftop Mediterranean living. Blending Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours.
La Rossettisserie – The best chicken I’ve eaten…
Piexes – South American meets Mediterranean
Le Canon – Local produce and natural wines, my type of place.

07. Emilie and the Cool Kids (Cookies & Coffee Shop)

Dessert is my favourite thing in the world by far. And if cookies are on offer… well then I’ll be there in the blink of an eye. Emilie’s Cookies are the talk of the town. Fun, light-hearted, decadent. I find it almost impossible to get NYC-style cookies or even just some with a little chunk when travelling Europe. Though yes I know guys, it’s the 21st Century and the world is catching up blah blah. It is still extremely rare.

Everything is homemade, to perfection. The love and care are evident in their carefully crafted cookies and baked goods to match. Let’s pair a ‘Cookinder’ (Kinder Maxi Cookie) with a Nutellacino (Nutella, Black Coffee and Milk) and then… for keepsake and the munchies later on, I’ll grab a slice of the carrot cake. I’d say that’s a done deal.

Do yourself a favour and escape from the chaotic hustle in the streets of Nice France, and pop into Emilie and the Cool Kids because C’est un délice! If you need to diversify your palette, give the below a shot too. Afterall, It’s no fun in summer without a gelato gripped tight in the other hand.

Dessert Merci

Wrapping Up The Côte d’Azur:

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. I was probably French in a past life because the way that the French comment on food, taste, produce quality, and presentation, is quite literally all I can make sense of and speak of while dining out. It can become a problem I am aware… though not so much when I’m on a mission to serve up the best food in Nice France for you.

Though I can’t seem to give a negative comment without being contempt with guilt (and maybe that’s something we can improve on), understanding and tasting a wide range of cuisine allows you to understand people and places a little more intimately.

Being in the South of France, and Nice in particular, has exhibited a way of life unfamiliar to that in the capital cities. It is a little more relaxed, yet still poise, it is carefree, yet sophisticated. It has the spicy attitude of the French though the food is lighter, playful, and explorative. The Cote d’Azur trascends you into the Mediterranean with sand, sea, and superb cuisine.

By the end of your trip to the South of France, I can assure you will have overconsumed on Bread, Butter & Bourguignon.

You should have no questions left about where to eat in Nice… but if you do, my inbox is always open. Au Revoir!

Leaving Crumbs.