Easter Celebrations will be sweeping the nation soon, families will be gathering to feast on glorious ensembles of food (after a strict 40 days of lent), and the chime of church bells will be heard faintly (or loudly) in the distance. Easter in Greece offers an unwavering sense of belief and belonging, and the Greek Easter Traditions in Paros are no exception!
Whether you are of the Greek Orthodox faith or not, Easter Celebrations in Greece will enrich you in ways I can’t explain. It will almost feel like a renewal of the mind body and spirit as you shift from the despairs of Winter (or Summer for you Southern Hemisphere-ers) and let go of what does not serve you as you walk into the freshness of the season ahead. I can completely vouch for this as it’s something I experienced during Easter in Paros in 2023 and it set the tone for the year that followed.
Greek Easter is one of the most important holidays in our calendar and is celebrated together with the bloom of Spring. Paros Island, however, does not treat it as just another holiday, they celebrate it with respect for centuries-old traditions that have shaped their modern-day practices, encompassing spirituality, culture, and togetherness. They also know how to celebrate, like really celebrate, all week (and night long). I’ll elaborate on this soon…
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Why Celebrate Easter in Greece?
Easter in Paros was the first leg of moving abroad in 2023, and it was honestly one of the best decisions. *Some context into the decision* Australia is extremely rich in Multiculturalism. Immigrants who fled their country, in the hope of a more prosperous and advantageous life, were stripped of the one thing that offered them a sense of belonging and identity. Their home. And what happens when one is longing for this sense of home? They re-create what they know and hold onto it with dear life. With that said, Australia has an insanely large Greek immigrant community, and our faith and culture have seamlessly integrated into our way of life.
I may or may not just be speaking on behalf of myself here, but I’ve always had a feeling of disparity celebrating such a Holy time in my home ‘away from home’. It is surreal to experience a holiday so deeply rooted in its culture when you’re in the Motherland itself, I mean, the whole country would be smelling like Roasting Lamb on the Spit and Freshly Baked Spanakopita (Greek Spinach and Cheese Pie). It’s enough to make you book a ticket right now. In fact, you’ve got precisely 7 weeks to do just that… GO GO GO!
I’m just as ready as you are right now to be completely immersed in these rich Greek Easter traditions and roam around Paros while the aromas of jasmine, bougainvillea, and wild herbs permeate the Spring air!
Greek Easter Traditions To Be Familiar With (And Experience In Paros)
For my non-Greek readers, the traditions and customs of Greek Orthodox Easter, also known as ‘Pascha’, can be vast depending on specific churches and locations. The most prominent fall within ‘Holy Week’, also known in Greek as ‘Megali Evdomada’, with which some of you are familiar. Below is an outline of Greek Easter Traditions and those that are celebrated in Paros. If you have the opportunity to be present for the entire week, I would highly recommend participating in these customs and celebrations to gain a sense of true connectedness, dedication, and love. It is an unparalleled beauty.
- Lazarus Saturday – ‘Megali Evdomada’ begins a week before ‘Pascha’ and in Paros, this begins with children visiting residents around the island and singing the hymn of ‘Lazarus’ while collecting money and eggs.
- Palm Sunday – Celebrations include the distribution of Palm Branches formed in the shape of a cross that has been blessed (people pin these to their front doors at home or with their icon stands). Fish is also served on this day only.
- Holy Tuesday – The day when women of the homes will all bake the sweet, buttery, crumbly Koulourakia (Greek shortbread easter cookies) that are shaped into braids *supposedly to ward off evil spirits*. I remember helping my grandmother make these and maybe even sneaking a lick of the batter when she wasn’t looking. The nostalgia is real…
- Holy Wednesday – Blessing of the Holy Unction ‘Holy oil’ takes place and where the faithful attend church to receive this holy oil offered for the healing of the body and soul (they take some home to place by Holy icons.)
- Holy Thursday – The day of dying eggs red (hard-boiled eggs… not easter eggs) and the baking of Greek sweet bread called ‘Tsoureki’ in which some eggs are placed onto, while the remaining are kept for Easter Sunday for the game of ‘Tsougrisma’ (Where you break each other eggs). In Marpissa, women spend the night devotedly decorating the Epitaphios in preparation for Good Friday’s solemn funerary procession.
- Good Friday – A highlight in Paros, is an imposing ritual of the “Epitaphios” procession where locals gather to participate in the evening procession, carrying a flower-decorated funeral bier through the narrow cobblestone streets and roads of the towns in Paros. Another not-to-miss experience on Friday in the village of Prodromos is the serving of the Traditional Greek food of ‘Revithosoupa’ (Greek Chickpea Soup). Residents offer this dish to visitors and passersby. In the evening in Lefkes village, the former Queen of Paros Island, the Epitaphios procession commences at midnight for a beautifully eerie night. There are also countless reenactments staged at Marmara, Prodromos, and Aspro Horio.
- Holy Saturday – A day to rejoice and prepare for the long-awaited day of Pascha. Households start to prepare Traditional Greek Food such as ‘Magiritsa‘ (Greek Easter soup made from Lamb offal), which is enjoyed after Midnight Mass, as well as preparations for a feast of flavours that is devoured on Easter Sunday. Another tradition of Paros for this night is what is called ‘The Burning of Judas’ (A burning of an effigy symbolic of the betrayal of Jesus by Judas). It is an illuminating and solemn night as lights are switched off in the lead-up to midnight and candles burn bright in the night sky. The journey of the night into Easter Saturday is one of the firework displays that mark the finale of Resurrection services all over the island of Paros.
- Pascha – Easter Sunday is humbling, it is full of love and appreciation. It is a celebration of life. Families and friends gather together for Sunday lunch, where the star of the show is the suckling Roasting Lamb on the Spit that is devoured among other dishes. ‘Kokoretsi’ (organ meats wrapped in offal and cooked rotisserie style) is another traditional Easter food and is also prepared and served during the feast. If you want to continue the celebrations, locals and visitors head down to the picturesque port of Naoussa for an all-day of feasting and partying, while the celebration of “Agapi” (Love) takes place in the village of Marpissa. Take your pick.
Embracing Greek Easter in Paros: Leaving Crumbs Style
A Paros Easter is vibrant, spiritual, and communal. Residents and visitors alike can feel the energy in the air leading up to and during Holy Week. I couldn’t wait to finally be here in Greece for this celebration and feel the magnetism of this springtime holiday.
Our Easter in Paros began as soon as we arrived at Athens airport (after a long 22-hour flight from Australia) and hopped onto the monstrous Blue Star Ferry at Piraeus Port. The ferry was packed to the brim like a can of sardines. I was a little shocked as to how many people also shared the intention of celebrating Easter in Paros and then remembered that some were locals returning home to spend time with loved ones (and others travelers from near and far who wanted to know how Paros celebrates it differently).
There is nothing like the feeling of grabbing your luggage, queuing amongst impatient passengers, and eagerly waiting for the Ferry Slip to lower so you can bolt down the ramp onto the soil of Paros. Embarking off the Ferry I instantly felt the magnetism in the air, it was chaotic, but exciting (mind you I got the entire flight schedule wrong and we arrived a day late… better late than never though right?).
We stayed at Hotel Iris and were taken care of by the lovely Anastasia (who thought something seriously wrong had happened to us when we didn’t arrive as scheduled… sorry again!). Anastasia gave us a beautiful run-down of Paros and the celebrations that followed. The rest was up to us to discover and immerse ourselves in.
Pascha Weekend: Fueled By Food
Naoussa was bustling, and you could sense the urgency to prepare for the weekend. There were subtle blessings plastered around the streets, and the scent of sweet Tsoureki (Greek Easter Sweetbread) lingered in the air. You could almost taste it… almost. I was the most eager to try the Traditional Greek Chickpea Soup of Prodromos so we drove to the village and, to Christen our tastebuds, had a mouthwatering lunch with some of the best food in Paros at O Tsitsanis (as recommended by the locals).
The oven-baked chickpea stew was lemony, creamy, and had just the right amount of Olive Oil. Paired with some ‘Xorta’ (Greek seasonal greens) and freshly baked bread, it was a match made in heaven! Occasionally I look back at photos and imagine myself digging into this again. Needless to say, I enjoy eating and cooking soups and stews alike…
TIP: I highly recommend hiring a car during your stay as the Easter Celebrations in Paros occur throughout the island and are not limited to Naoussa or Parikia.
Midnight Mass, Fireworks, and Feasting
Ask any Greek, and they’ll tell you just how long Holy Saturday feels… I don’t mean this in a bad way although, it is a long day of preparation for the feast after midnight mass and the day of Pascha!
As per Greek Easter traditions, Holy Saturday’s Midnight Mass is by far one of the most enchanting and hair-raising nights (for me anyway). It is held at the Islands’ churches and you can choose to experience this night in one of the many Historic Churches (such as Panagia Ekatontapilian in Parikia) in Paros or attend one in the town in which you are staying. For us, we celebrated the spectacle of ‘Anastasi’ at Faneromeni (Panagía) Church in Noussa town.
The nostalgia kicks in on nights like these. You remember going to church for Greek Easter as a little kid with your ‘Lambada’ (Adorned Candle given to you by a God-parent), sporting your finest attire, and ecstatic to stay awake past 10 PM. The good old days. As midnight approaches, and people flock to the church grounds, darkness pierces through the night and all that is seen are the flickering of candlelights. We have our candles ready, bracing the cool spring air, and as the clock strikes twelve, and the church bells ring out, you hear the joyous chants of ‘Christos Anesti‘ (Christ is risen) float through the crowd.
In a swift second, the somber mood shifted and the loud ‘BANG’ of the fireworks lit up the sky in red. They were so damn close I could just feel my ears ring. Nonetheless, it was MAGICAL and SURREAL. A moment to be cherished, forever.
You can bet your life that by this stage we were starving and were eager to celebrate ‘Anasti’ in true Parian style. Many restaurants on the Island, and in Naoussa, remained open and hosted a Traditional Greek Easter Meal featuring hearty dishes like ‘Magiritsa’ and ‘Kokoretsi’. Our feast awaited us at Axinos Restaurant. The ‘Magiritsa’ at Axinos was divine and the lemon masked any sign of ‘game’ tasting meat (if that’s what you’re worried about). I have to say we didn’t enjoy the starters but we didn’t mind for Pascha, the ambiance was electric and I was grateful just to be there.
Disclaimer: Neither my partner nor I had previously tried ‘Magiritsa’ before Paros as each household cooks their preference of Traditional Greek Food during this holiday. Try it at least once if you haven’t before.
Parians Know How to Celebrate Pascha
For those who can wake up before 11 am on Pascha, I take my hat off to you (celebrations and feasting go on well into 3 am). Though it can (and was achieved during our stay) we needed some fuel before an all-day celebration at the port of Naoussa later on.
Our Easter Celebrations took place in the picturesque coastal village of Aliki. It is 13km south of Naoussa. The forecast for the day was graciously clear blue skies with a high chance of lamb. Just the way we like it. Taking our seats at Aliki Restaurant, we were in awe of how peaceful it was. Long story short, it was a Traditional Greek Food Feast with lots of Taramosalata and you guessed it… meat! We booked for an ambitious 1 pm and were one of the first ones there (it must be an Australian trait). Most tables started arriving between 2-3 pm, so if you’re planning to eat out for Easter in Greece it’s safe to say, start later!
The real Parian celebrations for Greek Easter are all day, and all night long, at the Port Of Naoussa. If you have ever been to Mykonos of a lunchtime (at the beach clubs more so) you’ll know all too well that once the food has been devoured, and the booze starts flowing, it’s time for the party to start. I didn’t expect people to also be dancing on chairs and tables but… it’s Greece. *Said in a Greek accent.*
Follow the harbour walk straight to Barbarossa Restaurant and the music will lead you the rest of the way. The party is nestled within (and is a result of) the restaurants Sigi Ikthios and Tsachpinis as well as Salty Cocktail Bar and Sommaripa Consolato Paros. NOTE: These restaurants and venues book out 3 months in advance at a minimum for Pascha, so if you want to secure your reservation, do so in advance!
I love a party as much as the next person and it was so much fun. The music is primarily Greek but the vibe is electric (if that’s your type of thing). Drinks are pricier, and it’s so crowded that you can’t pass through with ease or without drinks spilling, but the chaos makes it that much more enthralling. In a scene to be witnessed, people end up singing on the rooftops of buildings as the night progresses. Only in Greece…
It is an event that people love to be seen at but don’t let this deter you from joining in on the spirit and Easter Celebrations of the day. The best thing about traveling is being anonymous, take it to your advantage.
The Spirit Of Togetherness
Soaking in the sights and sounds of Easter in Paros, let alone in Greece, has left a bittersweet memory. To be a part of the Easter Celebrations you get to see how the Parians unite in joy, a celebration of community and togetherness. When you leave cosmopolitan areas and experience the Patriotism of a place, it puts into perspective what we are all searching for. A sense of belonging and an identity in this crazy world we live in.
Paros’ warm hospitality and openness to invite visitors to explore their culture is unparalleled. A cultural extravaganza that leaves a long-lasting impression. I say forget coming here in Summer, join in during Greek Easter for a truly unforgettable experience you’ll carry with you forever.
It is all too easy to book a Greek Summer Vacation, but I challenge you to explore your favourite destinations during significant cultural celebrations to understand the nuances of that country.
You will be surprised by what you can learn from other cultures and it only fosters a better understanding of one another.
An Easter in Paros is one of renewal and togetherness.
Pack your bags, and get ready to embark on a journey of discovery!