Dipping your toes in the French Riviera is quite literally like winning the golden ticket to Charlie’s Chocolate Factory. There’s something in the air here, it’s inspiring and electric. 

It swallows you up whole and spits you back out as a more poised and polished version of yourself. The abundance of good quality produce and the Mediterranean climate rubs off on you in every aspect. You become the ultimate wine connoisseur and by the time you’ve parted ways you’ve grown to love 1 of three things: butter, ratatouille, and snails. Or is it rather bread, tuna and tartare? (You cannot escape it).

I can only speak from my own experience and observations, from my curiosity, and openness to wholeheartedly embrace the culture of the South. The majority of my year abroad was a mission to eat the best damn food, from a variety of food-obsessed individuals alike. The South of France was a playing ground, and after hours of research and word of mouth from frequent visitors, I believe we were able to experience it with a diverse lens. 

Leaving crumbs is not just another food blog, it is also an outlet of expression and passion towards lived experiences and those yet to be lived. It’s a culmination of tattletales, reality, and aspirations. And come to think of it, pinpoints exactly the essence of life in the south of France. 

Aspiring artists, designers, aristocrats and the like, made their way to this affluent neighbourhood many years ago. Many successes are owed to the beauty and energy that radiates from the south. The climate, the landscape, and its gorgeous flora, the produce and the lifestyle. It’s enough to drag me away right now. I didn’t quite know what it would feel like here, everyone has such a strong opinion of  France. However, I quite quickly became infatuated, which I’m hoping you become also, as I take you along the same journey and explore the many facets of the south of France that leave you feeling inspired. (The ones I explored or dipped a toe in anyway…)

A Short and Sweet Glimpse Into South Of France

A ‘Not So Standard’ South of France Itinerary

There’s always a reason why people choose to venture to the places they do. Whether that be for food, climate, culture, or pleasure. I’d like to think that the cities along the French Riviera I’m exploring with you are a culmination of all of these factors.

As I write this blog, it was around this time last year when I touched down back in France after a very long 10 years. The air slightly suffocating though nonetheless intoxicating (I am doing myself a disservice here… I mean that it was brilliant). The French Riviera feels to me like a place only experienced on screen, through the likes of Hollywood or an artist’s biography. You must commit time to enjoy the French Riviera, with no expectations or presumptions.

We’re going to dive into Nice, Juan Les Pins, Antibes, and Touching on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. I would say these are some of the best places to go in the south of France to experience the breadth of culture, status, and artistic flair. Though I am aware there is so much more to explore… *did someone say wine in Provence?*

NICE

As you travel along windy roads enveloped by a canopy of vibrant foliage, and ponder by the seaside, you’re met with vitality and a sweeping youthfulness you’ve never felt before. Nice is bustling, and chaotic, but alive. There is a sense of elegance mixed with an upper-brow sensibility. All the locals have flocked here for the summer, filling out their holiday homes and kicking their feet up for a much-needed vacation. (Though you could argue life is always a vacation here).

You can really feel the “live to work, not work to live” lifestyle here. Diving into Nice Beach French Riviera is a part of the daily routine either before or after a trip to the local Boulangerie Mama Baker, coupled with a stroll down the promenade as you flaunt your sunkissed skin.

Many restaurants do not operate on Sundays, some not even over the weekend you best believe. An absolute diamond in the rough who upholds these operating hours is none other than La Merenda. Take my word and ensure you dine here either for lunch or dinner, but you must book ahead if you want to grab a table at this institutional masterpiece. You pick from a daily menu written in chalk, sip on some house wine, and let the chef do the rest.

It’s a slow awakening, long lunchin’, and late evening type of place. Don’t mistake this for St Tropez, although Nice is a hotspot among the French Riviera, I’d say the crowd is more accustomed to jazz festivals and a little soft groove at the beach clubs. 

France is the beacon for Art. It was home to some of the most wishful thinking, bizarre, and wonderful artists of the 20th Century. The south of France was an inspiration for many, and you can begin to see where this inspiration originated from the more time you spend here. Maybe you had a little fan girl moment like me and couldn’t wait to explore Museé Matisse, which offered a deep dive into the colourful and exuberant life of Matisse and his journey as an artist.

What I find the most interesting is what convinced the artist to reside in Nice, one of the best places to go in the south of France, for most of his life. It came down to just two things; Landscape and Climate. I could resonate with this, as I’m sure you will too, once you look up and smell the roses.

“The large colourful reflections in January, the brightness of the day are what attracted me to settle here.”

– Henri Matisse

Well, Matisse, you are not wrong—a little food for thought.

JUAN LES PINS

Younger, rowdier, family-oriented and a little like being on a tropical beach holiday, yet on the French Riviera. It is such a juxtaposition from Nice, and our main objective for staying here was to position ourselves a little further down the coast to explore a different stretch of the Riviera. If I were to make this trip again (which I will) I would definitely hire a car because whilst public transport is efficient, it takes a hell of a lot of time to commute and limits your whereabouts. This charming seaside hub is vibrant with super beautiful sandy beaches.

If you want a more coastal, relaxed and casual holiday with the kids then this is your go-to. Restaurants are just as delicious but without such a steep price tag. Come casual beach chic if you will. There are just as many beach clubs that line the shore of Juan Les Pins but there are still some secluded and public areas to swim about. If you’re up for an adventure, one of the best beaches in the south of France is the Cap d’Antibes and the Bay of Billionaires. Secluded, and a little off the grid.

Juan Les Pins is commercialised, there are tourist trap restaurants intermingled with local gems. There are institutional icons, much like the best and most authentic crepes you’ll ever have in your life at Crêpes By Juan les Pins 1954 (one of the best places to go in the south of France), amazing chic boutiques, and specialty food stores. Speaking of specialty food stores, one that surprised yet excited me was Mochi Coffie. They served the most epic cold brew (coffee lovers thank me later) and indulgently gooey Daifuku Mochis made from noble and raw French ingredients.

If you are planning to coastal hop through the French Riviera and into Juan Les Pins, you must stay at the beautifully designed Hôtel Le Sud. The rooms are dressed and designed in an elegant and simplistic coastal way. There are handpainted ‘peekaboos’ on the walls are you explore the hotel’s floors and rooms, and they even have a food truck by the pool. See what I mean? Juan Les Pins is the laid-back and free-spirited twin sister.

ANTIBES

Trod carefully as you explore the cobbled streets of the historic old town of Antibes. It is a quintessentially picturesque French town. Narrow alleyways with little pops of coloured doors that open up to magical sanctuaries (as I’d like to think), bustling markets, and quaint cafes offering French delicacies to die for. Antibes is where you can unwind, get lost and then find your way again.

As you explore the scenic port of Antibes you catch a glimpse of a sea of luxurious yachts and a fortress that harbours the rich and complicated history of the South of France. Founded by the Greeks as ‘Antipolos’ in the 5th Century B.C. Antibes exudes an architectural landscape of medieval fortifications and Roman grandeur. There is nothing quite like walking these streets in our modern day but falling hopelessly into the guise of the past because you can’t help but feel a sense of wonder about life in the south of France and its rich cultural history.

You can experience Antibes quite colourfully whereby one day you may shop till you drop at the Marché Provençal, or feed your artistic curiosity as you peer into the world of Pablo Picasso at the Picasso Museum, housed in the historic Château Grimaldi. This was such a highlight for me, the perfect synergy between art and architecture, and a glimpse into Picasso’s time in Antibes that only amplified the town’s enduring appeal to creatives alike. There are just so many avenues to explore, and many things to do in the south of France that sing to your soul.

Antibes is a playground for dining. Nananère Resto is everything you could ever want from your French classics from leeks in vinaigrette to saucisson brioché. It was bold, yet relatable. Diverse, yet playful. And the servings oh so generous that I wish I could’ve gone back for more. If you’re seeking cultural depth with a twist of Mediterranean charm, then Antibes must be a destination on your quest through the South of France, not just a place passed by on a whim.

SAINT JEAN CAP FERRAT

A millionaires’ playground. A diamond by the ocean. A place aspirational in every avenue. Saint Jean Cap Ferrat in the south of France opened up my eyes to a world most almost dream about, though it inspired my utmost ambitions. The architecture has grandeur and prestige, with every detail carefully articulated and kept in pristine condition. Perched so high from the shoreline, this place almost feels like a fairytale.

It has an idyllic beauty that can only be truly appreciated in its presence. It is dotted with luscious gardens, immaculate streetscapes, luxurious villas (though you may struggle to peer through their fortresses), and an equally tranquil and gorgeous glistening shoreline. You’ll have worked up a sweat gazing at the charming village, so I’d recommend embarking down to the beloved Paloma Beach. The water is a striking turquoise, and it’s the perfect spot for sunbathing though I do recommend (just like most beaches in Europe) having flip-flops or water shoes so that your feet don’t bear the burden of the tiny painful pebble-lined shore (take care friends).

One visit that still floats within my memories of our time in Saint Jean Cap Ferrat was visiting the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. If you thought the gardens in Alice in Wonderland were exaggerated, then you’re in for an adventure. The Villa is an exquisite mansion dressed in pink, evocative of an Italian palazzo. It is a true glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the French aristocracy. As you walk within the entry you are greeted by a central Patio of arches and natural light, where a labyrinth of rooms branch off from its centre.

Villa Ephrussi almost needs a post on its own, though I dare you to spend a couple of hours exploring deep into the depths of the Villa’s garden, peering into every nook and cranny and fantasising about your wildest desires. You will leave feeling rejuvenated, inspired, (and maybe a little dizzy… just kidding).

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, with its culinary hotspots and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean, truly captures the essence of the French Riviera as it combines natural beauty, refined elegance, and peaceful charm.

The French Riviera In Short

I hope you walked away with an urge and understanding of this sun-drenched paradise they call the French Riviera (or Côte d’Azur). As always, my aim is to take you on a journey that embraces the essence of place, people and culture. I am not here to tell you step by step where to go, or what to do, instead, I aim to inspire your deepest curiosity of the Mediterranean charm and elegance that is the south of France (and Europe as a whole).

The South of France as you can see, with its azure waters and golden beaches, picturesque towns and delectable cuisine, offers one unwavering natural beauty and an invitation to its culinary provenance in the world. You are privy to some of the best bustling food markets, world-class museums of some of the greatest artists to walk the earth, and a sophisticated heritage and culture unmatched elsewhere.

France (or should I say the south of France) will always wake up the deepest part of me that is aroused by rich cultural heritage, design, and gastronomy.

I’ve been French kissed by the South of France. I’m curious to hear about your experience and that maybe you too, have also fallen prey to the timeless grace and glorious sunshine of the French Riviera?

Au Revoir et Bonnes Vacances!